Date: Sat, 11 Feb 1995 15:08:28 EST
From: MRPK81A@prodigy.com (MR TOM L CLARKE)
Message-Id: <013.03557721.MRPK81A@prodigy.com>
To: baidarka@imagelan.com
Subject: exprnc bldgng baidarka...part 3/7
I used a drill press for drilling all holes, then again
for countersinking... Used a larger drill bit (not a counter
sink bit) to counter sink, carefully setting the depth of
cut with the drill press... no problems other than boredom.
The deburring tool is wonderful...I also made heavy use
of a couple of flat mill files to take off all of the band
saw blade marks on the edge of the pieces... (I know that no
one will ever see them, but I know they are nice and
smooth)...
Assembling Pieces
I used doubled squid line (what you supplied) for all
lashings... I experimented with a number of knots and bends
and came up with the following, which worked:
Started every lashing with a Packers Knot...Tie a loose
figure eight knot in the end of the doubled line. (The other
end of the doubled line is the middle of the single line
with the needle threaded on it). Pass the needle end around
the piece which will be the anchor piece, then up through
the loop of the figure eight knot which has the bitter ends
coming out... and parallel to those bitter ends.... tighten
up the figure eight knot, cut off the bitter ends within an
eighth, seal them with flame, then draw the knot up tight
against the anchor piece... It wont slip. Now continue with
the normal Scout lashing (or sewing... I used the same
starting point for all sewing and lashing)
Ended each lashing with a round turn, then three clove
hitches... cut off the end, sealed with flame...
The only bend (for tying two lines together) I found
which did not slip was the Fishermens Bend... I ended up
only using it once... Rather than bend one line to the last
(for example, when doing long sewing runs on the bow or
stern) I just tied off the end of the line with the clove
hitch and started the next set of holes with the Packers
Knot...
As noted above, I used single knees for deck to frame
joints... Pain to cut the groves in the tubes for the single
knee to fit into... I used a hand hack saw as far as I could
cut, then the edge of a 4 inch mill file... Held the tubing
with two wood blocks with a deep V grove in each block... I
could hold it tight in the vice without collapsing the
tubes...about half way through the frames, I started
doubting the sanity of using single knees rather than the
double knees you show...
As noted above in plans, if I were to do it again, I
would have held off on finishing (i.e., not cutting to
length according to the blueprints) frame number 4.5 and 5
until after all other frames, the cockpit rim (not coaming),
foot braces and stringers had been put in... Then I would
have been able to adjust the height of the front of the
coaming and moved 5 forward a little to adjust to my body...