Date: Sun, 17 Sep 1995 15:06:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Richard Ian-Frese <u.washington.edu!rif@imagelan.com>
To: baidarka@imagelan.com
Subject: Re: A couple of questions on baidarka construction
In-Reply-To: <guthman.345.000F2F04@tigger.jvnc.net>
Message-Id: <Pine.A32.3.91j.950917133806.77132B-100000@homer15.u.washington.edu>
The rudder is attached to the stern by sewing two strips of nylon webbing
(3/4" will work well) to the rudder. Use the two strips of webbing to
sandwich the edge of the rudder. This should use up almost half the width
of the webbing (or not quite ~ 3/8" of the 3/4" width). Sew through the
sandwich (webbing, rudder, webbing). After the rudder has its webbing
attached repeat the process, only now attach the rudder to the
stern--lacing through the last (of three) rows of holes (the other two
rows are used for sewing on the skin). After the rudder is attached sew a
stich down the middle (length) of the webbing. This will form a neat
hinge, taking up any slack left over in the webbing (the ~ 1/8"-1/4" area
between where the rudder and stern are now joined).
The tab rudder specified in the 5.28 plans works well for current
corrections. It is remarkably responsive under reasonable conditions. It
probably won't help much when conditions get wild. Generally, rudders have
various uses and opinions on the value, appropriateness, or lack thereof,
of a particular type of rudder appear to be rather strong. That
said--you'll need to experiment a bit.
There are numerous ways of controlling the action. I use a thin line
running from the rudder assembly, underneath and around the cockpit rope,
and eventually on to the first rib forward of the cockpit. The control
line is adjusted by hand when needed (which isn't too often since you're
not steering with the tab rudder---just course correcting through stronger
currents, etc.). One end of the line is attached to one side of the
rudder and runs freely along the deck until it meets the the cockpit
coaming (the coaming wall just underneath the rope, where basically, the
position of the rudder is held in place by resistance or tension against
the coaming wall, until you pull or push the line, to change the
position). The line, after hugging the coaming then passes through a
small pulley mounted (sewn on through the skin and around the rib) on the
deck at the first rib past the cockpit. It reverses directions here and
terminates as it started, at the rudder (other side, of course). Internal
lines connected to a foot pedal are an alternative control.
-Richard Ian-Frese
rif@u.washington.edu
On Sun, 17 Sep 1995, Mike Guthman wrote:
> I have received my frame kit from George Dyson and am about to start
> construction on a 5.28 baidarka.
>
> Several questions come to mind...
>
> 1. I've studied the plans and have read TLC's building notes (very helpful).
> However, I'm not clear on how the rudder gets attached to the stern, how
> steering lines are led forward, and whether the steering is via pedals or
> some other mechanical arrangement.
>
> 2. In his building notes TLC questions whether the rudder will be effective as
> designed or if it will have to be modified. Now that you've had the boat out
> Tom, what has your experience been. What have others experienced?