Re: Painting Skin

John Reynolds (3rdplanet.com!johnr63@imagelan.com)
Thu, 27 Jun 1996 08:55:42 -0700 (PDT)

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 08:55:42 -0700 (PDT)
Message-Id: <v01530500adf7f64f3534@[205.198.191.29]>
To: baidarka@imagelan.com
From: 3rdplanet.com!johnr63@imagelan.com (John Reynolds)
Subject: Re: Painting Skin

>Well, here I am, stuck again. Baidarka - schmadarka maybe I should stick to
>the baidarka-lounger and the TV. ; )
>In following the instructions in the book "The Aleutian Kayak", I want to
>replicate the skin on the cover photo. That is: sort of a natural tan, sort
>of light leather color. I particularly like this as it allows the light
>through and you can see the shadows of the ribs, stringers and such (all that
>hidden work).
>Now for the hard part. I was planning on using Thompson's Water Seal and I
>have been informed that the EPA has banned the use of the old formula in this
>neck of the woods (San Francisco Bay Area). I am told that the current
>formula will not completely dry on canvas and therefore will not work. Can
>anyone out there verify this. Have you experience with this and if so, what
>did you do? I am comitted to #10 cotton duck as it is mounted and 90% sewn.
>Can any one tell me how I might realize my goals?
>Thanks, Pat Morrisey(patfly@aol.com)
_____________________________________________________

Here is a untried solution: A friend of mine used to work for Miller Paint
here in the NW. He told me about a product called Roplex. The way he
explained it to me is that it was the "guts" of acrylic paint. I've seen
some interesting things done with it. It forms a translucent almost
transparent flexible membrane. I would have to asume that Kelly-Moore in
the Bay area should have something similar. If not call Miller Paint @
503-233-4491 in Portland. Take some of this and some spare canvas and start
experimenting. My guess is that this would have no UV inhibitors in it so
you would want to have covered storage. Another solution from my
woodworking experience would be to use boiled linseed oil with a little
japan dryer in order to get it to cure a little faster. The problem with
linseed oil or I would think Thompsons water seal is that these products
don't form a membrane but would effectivly waterproof the canvas. This
would not allow the canvas to swell when wet in order to make it water
tight. I have seen neither solution used so this is all conjecture.

Let me know if you esperiment with Roplex and tell me about the results.

Good luck,

John, Ursu, & Falstaff