From: aol.com!GcdoAK@imagelan.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 19:25:27 -0400
Message-Id: <960629192526_566859525@emout13.mail.aol.com>
To: baidarka@imagelan.com
Subject: Wood and canvas canoe filler
Tim Webster wrote:
<< Someone told me that guys who build canoes use some kind of
chalk with the paint/linseed oil mix to get a smoother finish. Anyone
have any suggestions of where to get "chalk," how to use it, or other
fixes for an abrasive boat? >>
****
I just finished a few hours of work on the as yet unfinished restoration
on my pre 1920 B.N. Morris wood and canvas canoe. The canvassing of it was
lots of fun. The chalk Tim mentioned is actually 200 mesh silica sand. The
mixture used to fill the canvas during a modern restoration is made up of
enamel porch paint, linseed oil, japan dryer, varnish and silica sand. If
anyone wants the real recipe I'll be happy to give it to you. As each coat
is put on it is rubbed in with a canvas mitt and the last coat is rubbed by
hand. For all you criminals out there, when the last coat is rubbed on
you'll wear your fingerprints off. This is a real bonding experience with
your boat. This filler takes about 1 MONTH to dry to a slate like hard
finish that remains flexible enough to handle moderate impacts. After the
filler is dry, sanded and faired it gets three or four coats of coats of
enamel marine paint. This combination of canvas, filler and paint creates a
tough abbrasion resistant skin. I don't think that it would work real well
on a kayak though, mostly due to the unsuppported area between ribs.
Remember, a wood and canvas canoe has support under every square inch of its
"skin".
As I worked tonight I still had my hands change color from the filler
after one month of drying so I can sympathize with the folks who are having
problems with getting things to dry.
I'll be happy to help out anyone with wood and canvas canoe questions.
I'm feeling pretty smart right now, being part way through a restoration.
HAH.
Jon Stehn
gcdoak@aol.com