Date: Fri, 07 Feb 1997 09:36:48 -0800
From: Brian McDaniel <bjm@earthlink.net>
To: baidarka@lists.intelenet.net
Subject: nylon & polyu
Paul MacIntyre wrote:
>
> snewell@usa1.com wrote:
> >
> > Hello fellow baidarka builders,
> >
> > I discovered a fast way to transform your air dried oak into round ribs. It
> > takes about 3 minutes per rib. Cut the ribs into 3/8 square cross section and to
> > rough length (28"). Then make a V block out of a 28" by 3" x 3/4" pine. (Rip two
> > opposing 45 degree cuts down the center of the 28" length about 1/4 deep to form
> > a V groove. Put a screw at the end of the V block to stop the rib during
> > planing.) Clamp the block to your bench and lay the rib stock into the V groove.
> > Plane the four edges of the rib to make an octagonal cross section.
> >
> > To machine the ribs into a round cross section, chuck them in your hand drill
> > and drive them through an old trailer hitch (1/4" thick steel) that you have
> > drilled a 3/8" hole in. (When you drill the hitch, leave the burr on the hole as
> > this serves as a cutter!)
> >
> > When it's time to bend the ribs, try using the following jig. Attach a 3/4" by
> > 2" straight edge along one side of a 2' by 2' plywood base. Loft the rib radius
> > onto two plywood bending forms that can be moved together and apart along the
> > straight edge and clamped to the base. The spacing between the forms is set
> > based upon the distance measured between the rib mortises in the gunnals.
> > Another board is attached to the base just beyond the top of the forms to
> > prevent the rib from arching off the forms when bending. Set the jig, drop the
> > boiled rib into the jig and bend it. Hold it for about a minute and then clamp
> > it to the inside of the gunnals. Works like a charm.
> >
> > I did find that the angle of entry of the rib was off due straight gunnal
> > mortises and the desired rib curve lofted from the Zimmerly plans. I re-steamed
> > and re-bent the ends to match the gunnal mortise angles. In order to limit the
> > steam to the end of the rib, I made a wooden lid to fit over an old frying pan
> > and drilled 3/8" holes around the perimiter. Larger holes near the center of the
> > lid with a plastic yogurt container "cooling tower" keep the steam away from the
> > upper part of the ribs. Kind of looks extra terrestrial when steaming heavily
> > with 4 ribs protruding.
> >
> > Keelson's done, getting ready to make the stringers.
> >
> > Scott Newell
> >
> > P.S. 14 oz. nylon- is hypalon the only way to go?
>
> Scott,
>
> My friend Steve Kaspar has had good results on his new double with
> the 11oz nylon and polyurethane. It makes a translusent skin that is
> quite beautiflul. He is pleased with the durabilty. Steve is a
> agressive paddler and does not coddel his boats.
>
> Paul MacIntyre
I have also had good results on two singles using 14oz & 11oz nylon with
polyurethane. In my opinion, the translucence is sublime. However,
there is also the option of adding pigment to polyurethane to achieve
other aesthetics. Additionally, the durability of polyurethane seems to
be superior to that of either neoprene or hypalon paints.
(speaking of durability) I wonder if Steve found the titanium for rudder
material...
Brian McDaniel