Date: Wed, 07 May 1997 12:06:03 +0000
From: John Reynolds <johnr63@uit.net>
To: baidarka@lists.intelenet.net
Subject: Re: Nice finish
Thanks for the tips and reasoning. Do you or anyone else out there have
any experience with 1 or 2 pary poly paints on canvas.
Wolfgang Brinck wrote:
>
> >
> > Julio MacWilliams wrote:
> > >
> > > Use cotton canvas. Paint it with
> > > 1st coat: 1/3 turpentine 2/3 linseed oil (boiled). Both available
> > > at hardware store.
> > > 2nd coats: Linseed oil mixed with chalk (for thickness) and exterior paint.
> > >
> > > When the weave is not visible sand lightly, and apply a final coat
> > > of linseed oil mixed with exterior paint.
> >
> > Out of curiosity why Boiled Linseed oil? It takes forever to dry and has
> > marginal duribility. Why not thin the heck out of oil base paint for
> > penetration on the 1st coat then build up with paint and filler. Is
> > there any other reason other than tradition to use linseed oil?
> >
> > John Reynolds
> >
> The point of adding linseed oil and turpentine to the first coat is
> simply to make the paint penetrate the cotton and preserve it.
>
> I don't usually add oil in subsequent coats, but in effect, the slower
> drying makes for more flexible paint. Oil paint out of the can still
> has linseed oil in it but they add a catalyst to make it oxidize faster.
> Oil paint does not really "dry", some of the solvents evaporate, yes,
> but oxygen cross links shorter oil chains to form a polymer. The
> process of drying is really a process of oxidation. Oxidation continues
> after the paint is dry to the touch, but only more slowly and the paint
> continues to get more brittle with age.
>
> As for esthetics of the paint job, painting a boat is really the same
> as painting on a stretched canvas. So pick up a how to paint with oil
> book at an artist's supply store and have at it. All the techniques
> you find in one of those books will also work for your boat if you
> are looking for something other than the uniform pain look.
>
> --
>
> wolfgang. /|
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