Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 10:51:48 -0500 (EST)
From: Kirk Olsen <kolsen@imagelan.com>
To: baidarka <baidarka@lists.intelenet.net>
Subject: Re: Panache progress
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: robm@shaysnet.com (Rob Macks)
Subject: Re: Panache progress
>Chris,
>No I dont have red hair. The mail account actually belongs to my 12 year
>old son and right or wrong
>that is the name he wanted to use, and he doesnt have red hair either.
> The Cedar (I dont know if it is western red or Australian cedar because
>we have a native cedar as well ) I am going to use appears to be quite
>dark and is approximately 100 years old.The boards are 8"x 0.5" and were
>racked in the ceiling off an old shed. Iam looking forward to getting
>them cleaned up and cut into strips. The Huon Pine will be mostly on the
>bottom of the hull and for deck fittings and coamings and the Sitka will
>depend on availability. The plans arrive at the end of this month so after
>that it will be all a go.
>I will keep you posted on my progress.
> Its a pity you know that there isnt some were that you could post photos
>of new boat launchings
>like they have in some of the magazines. It would be great to see some of
>the boats that people
>around the world are building and paddling.
> regards
> Craig Wilkin carrot@vision.net.au
>p.s. some words of wisdom from down under.
>DOING WHAT YOU WANT IS FREEDOM.
>LIKING WHAT YOU DO IS HAPPINESS
I have a page on my web site that I post photos of boats built from my
plans. I know I have not updated it recently but I hope to do so soon since
I have received number of pictures from home builders. I would encourage
you Chris and Craig to send me photos of your boats and I will post them on
my page.
Chris, about the difference in wood density, there can be problems with
hard and soft woods producing an irregular surface. And I too use a water
based wood filler on my boats instead of epoxy and wood dust because it is
so hard it would stick out after sanding.
There should not be so much of a difference between the sitka spruce and
western red cedar to cause an irregular surface unless your sanding pad has
a soft backing. Sanding blocks and sanding pads for power sanders come in
hard and soft backing materials. The hard backing on your sanding pad
should produce a smoother surface cutting across the sitka and cedar.
The soft backing works better for curved interior surfaces like the bilge.
All the best,
Rob Macks
www.shaysnet.com/~robm/