From: "Gene Smith" <SmithFrow@worldnet.att.net>
To: <baidarka@lists.intelenet.net>
Subject: Re: [baidarka] Blistering Oil Paint
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 08:41:02 -0000
George Putz goes into traditional oil finishes in his "Wood And Canvas Kayak
Building". Robert Spano's suggestion that japan drier could be the missing
link is supported by his formulas; and Steve Yahn's cautions about the
danger of mixing different paint formulations is also very much to the
point - there are so many different types that one must be really aware of
ingredients. If no one has any actual experience with fixing this problem,
I'm going to hazard a guess that you might try painting the inside of the
canvas with a thinner mix of boiled linseed oil and turpentine (more
turpentine) with as much japan drier as can *safely* be added to the
mixture. To determine what constitutes a safe amount of drier, in the
absence of experienced help from someone on this list, I think you are going
to have to head for the library and look for some antique paint technology.
The questions you would need to answer are (roughly) How much is "too much"
japan drier and what happens if you do get too much? Back in the bad old
days, there tended to be more information and fewer miracle ingredients - if
you have a good look, you are quite likely to find an old "how to" book that
tells you all about what happens when you have an uncured linseed oil finish
and how to fix it (if it's fixable). Oh yeah, and be sure to share whatever
you find out with this list!
Gene Smith
wishing you luck
>To anyone who can help,
>
>I skinned my kayak with #10 canvas duck and finished it with oil paints.
The
>first launch included a rolling session, so the inside became wet. When I
>arrived home after the first launch, I noticed that there where tiny
blisters
>over much of the skin. I popped a few of them and inside was some creamy
>yellow stuff. As the skin dried, most of the blisters disappeared.
>
>The first coat was a 2/2/1 ration of boiled linseed oil, oil based primer
and
>turpentine, and it was allowed to dry one week and very lightly sanded.
The
>second coat was oil base primer, which was sanded heavily. The third coat,
>which was the final coat, was a low luster oil based enamel, and it was
>lightly wet sanded. Then the whole thing was allowed to set for two weeks.
>
>What happened, what did I do wrong, how can I fix it, and how can I prevent
it
>from happening again on future kayaks?
>
>Thanks for any help.
>
>Duane Strosaker
>Southern California