Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 23:11:45 -0500 (CDT)
Message-Id: <199807110411.XAA06244@atlantis.nconnect.net>
To: baidarka@lists.intelenet.net
From: pathfndr@nconnect.net (Rich Frey)
Subject: Re: [baidarka] Deck lashings
Regarding deck lines for my greenland style kayak, I was first going to use
natural cord with some bone antler sliders, but couldn't find the suitable
cording in time for my trip. I decided to use bungee cord on the horizontal
lines in front of and behind the cockpit and on the stern. I'm very glad I
did; they held water bottles, the paddles and two fishing rods very snug,
even when being portaged. [The bow line I had installed as I sewed up the
boat is of cotton cord. It was hard to slide the paddle under and tended to
be loose, so not very useful.]
I then used the thin rope I lashed the boat to the car with (tied to the
stern cross lines) and strung them to the rear deck cross lines, thus
creating longitudinal lines. Under these, I tucked and lashed my sleeping
bag, pad and a backpack. The tension of the bungee cord kept everything from
moving or shifting. While I would have preferred to have everything under
the deck, this arrangement worked well. Because the holes are high on the
gunnels, I don't see a problem with leaking (and I don't paddle much in high
waves) I also used a heavyweight bungee cord and a slightly smaller hole, so
the cord acts as a plug.
The bow and stern lines can't be changed easily, but the ones closest to the
cockpit are accessible, so I may use natural cord most of the time (for
authenticity) and bungee for tripping (practicality). I believe the natives
who constructed these watercraft were opportunists and would use whatever
worked best, given the task.
Rich
You wrote:
>I have always drilled right through the fabric into the gunwales and run
>the lashings through there. But with cotton fabric, the hole in the
>fabric becomes a place where water can get into the boat and also a
>place where rot can start. Also, as the skin moves around, these holes
>enlarge, so Bill Low's suggestion seems an improvement.
>
>It seems to me that most commercial kayaks have excessive deck lashing
>going on. Apparently, lots of ropes make kayak look more nautical and
>complex and therefore make it easier to justify a price tag in excess of
>$2000. I am more inclined toward minimalism myself, although on camping
>trips, I have been guilty of lashing stuff to the deck.
>
>The British designers like Goodman and Hutchinson believe that you
>should have a line that runs the whole perimeter of the boat. This
>functions as a safety line when you exit your boat and gives you
>something to hang on to. I don't subscribe to this philosophy myself,
>but then, the beauty of building your own boat is that you can have it
>your way.
>
>Wolfgang
>
>
>William H. Low wrote:
>>
>> I've tried several techniques with varying degrees of success. I now just
>> sew loops through the skin and attach bungie cords or what ever to the
>> loops. I have done this on a number of boats with no failure of any kind.
>>
>> Bill Low
>>
>> ----------
>> > From: William J. Russell <russel79@idt.net>
>> > To: Baidarka Mail List <baidarka@lists.intelenet.net>
>> > Subject: [baidarka] Deck lashings
>> > Date: Thursday, July 09, 1998 12:59 PM
>> >
>> > HELP....I've almost completed my second Baidarka and I need some good
>> > tips for attaching deck rigging...on the first boat I made small
>> > hardwood loops that I screwed to the top of the gunwales and then
>> > threaded the lines through these loops...this worked OK but I'd like to
>> > find a different method....I'm toying with the idea of "pegging" rope
>> > loops at the points I want the deck rigging attached to the deck...I've
>> > seen one or two other boats with ropes pegged into the side of the
>> > gunwales and this seemed to work OK....anyone have any other method they
>> > use that might work for me???? any assistance in this regard would be
>> > greatly appreciated.....Russell
>
>