Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 08:37:28 -0700 (PDT)
Message-Id: <199806191537.IAA01594@ns1.intelenet.net>
To: baidarka@lists.intelenet.net
From: redcanoe@pangea.ca (Douglas Ingram)
Subject: Re: [baidarka] RE : Grain?
After making over 400 paddles, I find the intensity of this discussion
rather amusing!
So much effort is being put into making the perfect paddle first time out.
Don't sweat it for the first few, consider them learning experiences. Don't
worry about using premium materail until your skill and understanding of
paddlemaking can justify the effort of the search for it. Then you can
honour the material with skill and craft. If you are just going to
"butcher" the wood into the shape of a paddle, then using premium wood is,
well, a waste.
As far as grain is concerned, it is most critical to have it verticle and
without runout through the shaft. Having it continue through the blade is a
bonus. Verticle grain in the blade will allow you to shape it thinner and
maintain the right balance of flex to stiffness. Some flex in the blade can
actually be a benefit as it reduces the stress load on the shaft, which, as
a fulcrum, is the focus of all the load anyway. Some flex will also act as
a shock absorber while paddling, taking up some of the impact load from each
stroke and reducing the stress upon your muscles. How much flex to have?
That has been debated heatedly for years, and will continue to be debated.
As a starting point, I would recommend shaping the blade till flex is just
starting to be present in the blade, so as not to interfer with the paddles
roll as a tool for completing the eskimo roll.
Try shaping the paddles a few ways, stiff and soft. Remember, it takes at
least two dozen attempts at paddle making before you really start to get the
hang if things anyways.
As far as using modern materials such as fiberglass and epoxy, is it not the
spirit of the original kayak builders which we are trying to share? It is
my understanding that these little boats were cutting edge technology, given
the resources available. I have no doubt whatsoever that the Inuit and
Aleut of old would not have used these materials if they were available. In
the end, it is your efforts to build a boat and paddle through the efforts
of your own sweat which will bring you closest to the spirit of these
honourable people. Use the modern materials appropriately and with
discretion and I think that you will be well served.
One way in whinch you can reinforce the paddle tip very effectively is this:
Once the paddle is ready for final shaping, cut away some of the tip. This
could be as simple as a 1/4" relief around the edge, or something a little
more substantial.
take a small piece of plywood, or similar material that is flat and still
and larger than the tip of the paddle. Cover this with packing tape as a
release agent. Clamp this to the paddle blade so that it provides a working
area beyond the tip.
Take plasticine and cut it into strips, about 1/4" thick by 3/8" high. Use
this material to build a dam around the cut away area of the paddle blade.
You can use other materials too, but this is very quick and requires no
further releas agent. Make sure that the curve is smooth and replicates the
intended finished shape of the paddle tip.
Mix up some epoxy. Use some coarse filler, such as wood flour to build up
its consistency to that of syrup. The filler reduces the brittlesness of
the cured epoxy, as well as providing you with the opportunity to get a good
colour match to the wood of the paddle. Pour the mix into the resevoir that
is determined by the dam and the paddle wood. If you can't get a good
match, use black powder tempra paint, it mixes in well and black goes with
anything. Tres Chic.
Once the epoxy cures, you remove the backing board and the dam, then shape
the epoxy to blend in with the paddle wood. If you are so bold, at this
point you can cut a slot across the paddle tip, through its edge, so that
you can insert a spline to reinforce the tip. I hold the paddle blade
parallel to the bandsaw blade and push it in for a cut that is about 1 1/2"
deep. You can glue in a hardwood spline, cut so that the thickness of it
matches the cut. What I do no is to prepare fiberglass pieces, three layers
of 6 oz. cloth, laid up with resin pigmented to match the epoxy tip. I glue
this in with epoxy and then shape the whole thing smooth, once it is cured.
It is also an option to carry this edge rigth around the whole paddle blade
edge, but in this case, there is not need for the spline to be used anywhere
other than the tip. This will allow soft woods, such as cedar, to have the
edges shaped quite thin for a clean cut through the water. Its not
indestructible, but its far tougher than cedar alone, and it is easy to repair.
As for finishes, try this. One coat of varnish as a sealer, then sand with
220 grit. Then apply at least two coats of oil. I use Tung oil. The
varnish does not build up much of a film in one coat, it builds up a nice
base for the oil finish, and keeps the dirt and grim out of the wood grain,
keeping it cleaner looking. This results in a silky smooth finish that is a
delight.
Douglas Ingram
Red River Canoe & Paddle
P.O. Box 78, GRP 4, RR 2
Lorette, Manitoba
Canada
ROA OYO
(204)878-2524
URL: www.wilds.mb.ca/redriver
e-mail: redcanoe@pangea.ca