From: "William H. Low" <billow@capecod.net>
To: <baidarka@lists.intelenet.net>
Subject: Re: baidarka Laminating Wood
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 09:09:37 -0500
Twisting is a problem with most thin woods. I found that cutting the strips
1/4" thick and glue them immediately with TightBond II works best. I put the
laminated pieces in a press as long as the laminates and clamp for all its
worth. I don't steam the long pieces.
You can mix types of woods and I do it for the cockpit, deck beams, keelson,
and sometimes gunwales.
The outside strips take the most of the stress so don't cut into them. The
interior strips basically keep the outside strips apart and you can mortise
into them for ribs. Unfortunately you must pierce the outside strips for the
deckbeams just keep the holes small and toward the center of the gunwales.
I don't have any recommendations for good woodworking books. I learned what
I know at my father's knee. I'm sure others on the net would have good
recommendations.
All in all I think that laminating greatly increases strength and reduces
weight. I have never had any failure of the frame or skin.
Bill Low
-----Original Message-----
From: George Privett <gprivett@yknet.yk.ca>
To: baidarka@lists.intelenet.net <baidarka@lists.intelenet.net>
Date: Sunday, February 28, 1999 9:44 PM
Subject: baidarka Laminating Wood
Hi Bill,
I was thinking about experimenting with laminated gunnels and stringers for
a take-apart yak using our local spruce. It's tough, and light but has a
tendency to twist if not fastened to something.
Your technique of using laminations might stabilize the wood. A few
questions?
Do you need to steam the wood for gunnels? How thin are the strips? Do
you use epoxy glue? Can you mix two different types of wood for lightness
and strength -- eg. fir and spruce?
Could you recommend any good woodworking books?
Thanks
George