Message-Id: <199911101306.IAA07908@circlefx.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 07:51:20 -0500
Subject: Re: baidarka Kerfed Coamings
From: "Ron Curtis" <ron@roncurtis.com>
To: baidarka@lists.intelenet.net
Hi,
On Kerfing
If you go to the trouble of kerfing through a 1/2" piece of material why
wouldn't you want to use two 1/4" pieces? The bending would be a little
easier and you you would not expose a zillion parts of endgrain to the
elements (it's like a sponge) and you would have a much more structural
element. Kerfing in the woodworking business is usually supported
(mouldings etc.) and lamination, carving solid and steaming are used for
curved structural elements. I followed Wolfs suggestion for an alternative
to steaming for my Aleutian and used three water logged (I soaked them for a
couple of days) pieces of white ash 3/16"+ x 1 1/2" and they bent around the
combing form with no complaint (well, not much anyway).
Ron
---------------------
----------
>From: Llama <llama@mb.sympatico.ca>
>To: baidarka@lists.intelenet.net
>Subject: Re: baidarka Kerfed Coamings
>Date: Tue, Nov 9, 1999, 10:37 PM
>
> Samson family wrote:
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> Just came across a copy of David Zimmerley's 1983 article on building a one
>> hole 'bidarka' from Small Boat Journal.
>>
>> His method of making the coaming is interesting - He gets an 8' long piece
>> of spruce, 1 1/2" x 1/2", then makes saw cuts, perpendicular to the length,
>> most of the way through the 1/2" thickness, every couple of inches. That
>> makes it much easier to bend to shape. The saw cuts are kept to the inside
>> and pretty much close up when the coaming is bent.
>>
>> Questions - Is this authentic? Has anyone else tried it? Is it strong
>> enough?
>>
>> Bill Samson
>> -- bill.samson@tesco.net
>>
>
> That is how I made the curved part of my coaming frame (not the coaming
> itself, but the frame it is attached to - not a baidarka here). Seems
> to be fairly strong but then it has reinforcement as well. P'raps you
> could fill the kerfs with a thin epoxy or CA once bent.
>
> The saw kerf itself would have to be very thin, as well. I used a thin
> bladed Japanese saw (cuts on the pull stroke - you must get one! They
> rule) and that worked very nicely.
>
> Regards
>
> J
> -
> Baidarka Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be
> reproduced outside Baidarka or Baidarka archives without author's permission
> Submissions: baidarka@lists.intelenet.net
> Subscriptions: baidarka-request@lists.intelenet.net
> Searchable archive: http://rtpnet.org/robroy/baidarka
>
>
-
Baidarka Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be
reproduced outside Baidarka or Baidarka archives without author's permission
Submissions: baidarka@lists.intelenet.net
Subscriptions: baidarka-request@lists.intelenet.net
Searchable archive: http://rtpnet.org/robroy/baidarka