baidarka Fw: aleut paddles


Subject: baidarka Fw: aleut paddles
From: James Mitchell (mariner@seanet.com)
Date: Fri Dec 15 2000 - 00:06:41 EST


Stefano, I want to pop this one back over to the net because I think the
others who have been discussing the Aleut paddle should see this too. To catch
you all up, Stefano and I were talking about the Aleut paddle...

Paddling with this blade is very different than you are probably used to. I
have found at least four distinctly different basic paddling styles, each
suited to its own paddle. Most of us are familiar with Euro style paddles and
with the Greenland paddles. Let me say at the outset that I know next to
nothing about paddling with the Inuit paddles, and everything I say of the
Aleut here may also be true of the Inuit. Those of you who know, please tell
me.

I know this is a vast oversimplification, but please bear with for the moment.
The two basic Alaskan styles of double bladed paddles that I am aware of are
what I call the Arctic style, and the Aleutian. The Arctic is the style you
see in the old photos, small ovate blades (18" x 3.5") on a long loom
(100"-120"). The Aleutian is the long narrow blades on a short loom (32" x 4"
x 90", 24" loom), similar in some ways to the Greenland (Inuit) but longer and
with concave shaped blades and a trapezoidal cross-section to the loom.

The Arctic style paddles use a sweeping motion inwhich the blade is set into
the water in a shallow position with the shaft close to the deck and the
blades as far from the hull as the paddler can comfortably reach. This
sweeping shallow stroke gives good power because of the leverage and propels
the boat well for having such a small blade, but it also induces a fair amount
of yaw (spin) to the hull with each stroke.

What we have discovered about the Aleut blade is that it should be paddled in
line with the hull, and silently. The red mark on the power side of the blade
is traditional, and appears to be a kind of instruction manual left behind for
us beginners. Viewed from the cockpit, that mark becomes an "X" with one side
parallel to the water. I use that as a guide, inserting the blade as close to
the gunwale and as far forward as possible --- right up to the "X". It is a
very unusual stabbing motion. The blade is actually moving forward as the
pointed tip goes in. I don't put any power on the blade until it is fully
inserted.

Once the blade is fully inserted in the water, I draw it straight back along
the gunwale. It will be at about a 60 degree angle to the water, nearly
vertical. My lower hand will be almost touching the water, and my upper hand
will be OVER the GUNWALE. For a stoke on the left side, my RIGHT hand will be
over the LEFT gunwale. What I am describing here is a full body rotation. If
you will simulate this sitting in a chair, you can feel how the weight of your
upper arm and shoulder are already driving the paddle down, using gravity to
do what the flatter sweep type stroke requires muscle to do.

This rotation in the Aleut stroke cannot be underestimated, or
under-performed. When I finish every stroke, my shoulders are about 45 degrees
off the centerline of the hull. Both hands and arms are on the same side of
the boat, at or outboard of the gunwale. This takes practice, but the power
will amaze you.

Here is another surprise. We have learned to stop at the end of that stroke,
and wait for the paddle to rise to the surface on its own. Yes, we actually
halt the rhythm of the stroke, allowing the hull to glide through the water
for a beat. It is not the continuous power motion we are used to with the
Euro style and Arctic paddles. Allowing the paddle to rise to the surface
rather than lifting it will conserve energy, an effect similar to the rest
step in mountain climbing. It gives your muscles a chance to purge the acids,
let you recover a bit.

The whole sequence goes like this: insert, rotate, glide, then set the other
side of the stroke. Each stroke is its own action, a zen made of redcedar and
water. We actually make a chant to go with the stroke, to express the power
curve as a swell of sound. With the Euro blade, we are used to putting power
on all the time. That is why it splashes going in and coming out, making noise
and wasting energy. With the Aleut blade, you start with zero, gradually
increase power as you move within your body's highest-power ergonomic range,
then begin dropping that power off as you pass your hip, ending with the
glide. It's a bell-shaped power curve.
.....rrrrrrrrrRRRRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrr....................

How do you know when you've got it right? Listen. There will be no splashes,
no drips, no cavitation; total silence.

And you will be moving faster with less effort than you have ever known.

----- Original Message -----

From: James Mitchell

To: Stefano Moretti

Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2000 7:15 PM

Subject: Re: aleut paddles

I just toss that out there so no one will feel that because they lack the
skills or shop to work in that they can't experience this paddle. Did you see
Lew's post about the plans? They are really excellent, and you should have a
good time building this blade.

Paddling with this blade is very different than you are probably used to. I
have found at least four distinctly different basic paddling styles, each
suited to its own paddle. Most of us are familiar with Euro style paddles and
with the Greenland paddles. The two basic Alaskan styles of double bladed
paddles that I am aware of are what I call the Arctic style, and the Aleutian.
The Arctic is the style you see inthe old photos, small ovate blades on a long
loom. The Aleutian is the long narrow blades on a short loom, similar in some
ways to the Greenland (Inuit) but longer and with shaped blades.

Ooops, company coming. Willhave to finish this later.

  ----- Original Message -----

  From: Stefano Moretti

  To: mariner@seanet.com

  Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2000 1:46 AM

  Subject: aleut paddles

  Thanks for replying. I am keen in building my own, since woodworkin is my
passion and I'm based in Italy, a little too fare to get any kind of support
either than pics or design files.

  Thank you anyways, and I'll be exchanging views if this is of interest as I
gather from your mail.

  Stefano

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