Subject: Re: baidarka FW: Aleut Paddle
From: Robert August (robertaugust@hotmail.com)
Date: Tue Dec 26 2000 - 19:54:35 EST
The idea of using a shaper for paddle faces has got my mind ticking over
(though I could not fit the machine in my current shop)... how about using
a tall shallow cove cutter and a jig to hold the paddle and taper it gently
from tip to loom?
just a thought
Rob
>From: "James Mitchell" <mariner@seanet.com>
>Reply-To: baidarka@lists.intelenet.net
>To: <baidarka@lists.intelenet.net>
>Subject: Re: baidarka FW: Aleut Paddle
>Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2000 15:38:43 -0800
>
>Oooh, I hate to recommend this to anybody. It is a special cutter I built
>up myself with the help of a machine shop (the cutter alone was nearly
>$500). Tricky, expensive, dangerous as hell. A panel cutter won't do it.
>This is more like a 2" high cove cutter with a long straight side set at 8
>degrees. If you really want to go there, I will send you some photos after
>I
>come back from Alaska. You will need a pretty health shaper for this, at
>least 2 hp. I am using a 220v Grizzly. Ask me again next year!
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Childersmith, Gary" <GChildersmith@providence.org>
>To: <baidarka@lists.intelenet.net>
>Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2000 11:51 PM
>Subject: baidarka FW: Aleut Paddle
>
>
> > James Mitchell,
> >
> > I have access to a shaper. It is in my garage and I am just learning to
> > make some window frames. So far, I have all my fingers. What type of
> > cutter are you using for "scooping" your paddle blanks? Is it a type of
> > raised panel cutter? I'd rather be making paddles than window frames.
> >
> > Gary Childersmith
> > GChildersmith@providence.org
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: James Mitchell
> > To: baidarka@lists.intelenet.net
> > Sent: 12/19/00 9:17 PM
> > Subject: Re: baidarka Aleut Paddle
> >
> > I already done did the scooping. That's what the shaper is for. The
> > power
> > face is essentially done.
> >
> > Now.... OK, that's a maybe. The "Maybe" is if you want to accept my
> > "short
> > cut" ridge shape for now. I have stopped making the ridge as sharp as I
> > used to. I am going now for a rounded ridge that is more the resultant
> > size
> > of the grooved ridge that Lew uses on the center of the paddle. You can
> > take my blank, round that ridge down to Lew's dimensions, and with a
> > narrow
> > gouge put in his center groove. Or you can do what I am doing, just
> > round
> > that ridge off.
> >
> > Performance wise, I think the rounded ridge is fine; at least within our
> > ability to test so far. We are doing more tests to try to determine the
> > real function of the ridge at different angles of attack. I have found
> > that
> > the sharp ridge may be a contributor to flutter, whereas the rounded
> > ridge
> > seems to draw less critically.
> >
> > Lew's grooved ridge seems to perform just the same as the rounded ridge.
> > Lew thinks (and I am not disagreeing; but have no evidence either way
> > yet)
> > that the center groove adds power to the stroke. I dunno. I do know
> > that I
> > am really pleased with the rounded ridge that I have been using. It
> > seems to
> > make the paddle especially friendly in a low brace, where it skims the
> > water
> > gracefully. In a high or sculling brace, the paddle seeks its own
> > proper
> > angle of attack. That is very sweet in practice. Lew and I agree that
> > my
> > blade pulls a bit more smoothly than his, with considerably less flutter
> > --
> > due largely, I think, to the dihedral angle; however it is possible that
> > the
> > ridge is affecting flutter. It is hard to compare actual pulling force
> > without some objective measuring gear. Bottom line: Lew is one hell of a
> > speedster; he can pull away from me any time he wishes, using either
> > paddle.
> >
> > AND now that we have finally got ourselves all nice and comfy, I dug
> > through
> > David Zimmerly's web site and extracted a large copy of the MAE hulls
> > (Lenningrad) from Akun, collected about 1845. Both drawings show a
> > similarly shaped Aleut paddle, a variation on the blade that Lew drew up
> > and
> > that we have been making and testing. These blades are slightly longer
> > at
> > 100" (250-254cm), and about 3-3/4" width. The blade portion appears to
> > average about 39", as opposed to our present 33". The loom may be 2 "
> > shorter, running about 22" to our present 24". Result: a monster blade.
> > I
> > made a template last night. This blade will fit the same shaper setup
> > as I
> > am using for the present Aleut paddle, so I will make one from a couple
> > of
> > the clear 2x6's that I picked up at the lumber yard a couple weeks ago.
> > This
> > one may pull my arms off, we shall see. But what we may have here is a
> > really high power Aleut blade. I am calling this one the Akun blade.
> > Lew,
> > if you are listening, do you know where your blade came from? Can you
> > tell
> > us more about that?
> >
> > Dotter1.com, the Juneau Jewel, has apparently joined the kayak club up
> > there. They have been drooling over her boat, and asking paddle
> > questions.
> > So she is getting my latest Aleut paddle for Xmas. If you are around
> > Juneau,
> > this will be a chance to try the blade. I will be there from the 22nd to
> > the
> > 29th, so if you want to come talk kayaks, I will meet you at Valentines
> > any
> > day I am not skiing!
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Samson Family" <bill.samson@tesco.net>
> > To: <baidarka@lists.intelenet.net>
> > Sent: Monday, December 18, 2000 8:00 AM
> > Subject: Re: baidarka Aleut Paddle
> >
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: James Mitchell <mariner@seanet.com>
> > > <snip>
> > > >All you
> > > >will need is a low angle block plane, or a good belt sander.
> > >
> > > Will that be adequate to generate the scooped out bits either side of
> > the
> > > ridge? Or will some kind of rounded-sole plane be necessary?
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > > -
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