Subject: RE: baidarka Angle grinders
From: John Gerlach (gerlach1@pacbell.net)
Date: Fri Dec 29 2000 - 14:44:06 EST
Ok, I'm interested in trying one of these magical tools. Do the artistic
grinders on the list have any suggestions as to techniques, brands, size,
setup, vacuum attachments, disks, etc.
Thanks,
John Gerlach
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-baidarka@lists.intelenet.net
[mailto:owner-baidarka@lists.intelenet.net]On Behalf Of Douglas Ingram
Sent: Friday, December 29, 2000 10:01 AM
To: baidarka@lists.intelenet.net
Subject: Re: baidarka FW: Aleut Paddle
Hi James,
Philip answered the "what's an angle grinder! question pretty well. I would
add that I never put 4" discs on a 4" grinder. I always use 5". This
allows a bit of flex to the edge of the disc, giving me more of a feel of
what I am doing, and allowing me to work the disc flatter. The 4" discs are
much stiffer and force you to work more on its edge. I have, in the past,
put 8" discs on the small grinder, this allows the discs to be worked very
flat, as it will actuall bend to the work.
This is the most valuable shaping tool that I own. Some have joked that it
is my "magic" tool, I use it for so many different tasks, it would be
difficult to list. I would encourage anyone who does much complex wood
shaping to become familiar with its capacities.
Sure, it makes a lot of dust. I do not believe that it is panacea for every
task or situation. I will offer this, though, that when one is working to
close tolerances, abrasives often offer greater control in varying grain
conditions than cutting tools. Perhaps I should restate that as being more
consistently predictable. Also, for many complex shaping situations, it is
very fast and predictable. I can't think of a better way to carve portage
yokes.
600 paddle, soon to be 620, isn't such a big deal. If its your work, and
you've been doing it for awhile, it all adds up. If you would like to take
a look at them, go to: www.wilds.mb.ca/redriver
I am curious to see how long it takes me to make up the Aleut paddle. I
just got my brother to acces the file for, and he is printing it up for me.
I am looking forward to seeing the drawings. I am going to try it out first
for my 10 year old son. anyone have thoughts about proper scaling?
We are also starting up a kayak for him over the christmas break. A good
father son project. Still thinking about what to build, I expect that I
will finalize that as we start.
Oh, back to those sailing boats. I do like the Haven 12 1/2 a lot. But if
I am going to go through the effort of building a sailing boat, my ambitions
for its use will be more ambitious than day sailing. I want something that
can keep on going. For day sailing, I would rather rig up a canoe.
I have always loved the look and philosohpy of Albert Strange's boats.
Especially Sheila, Sheila II, and Wenda. Roxanne has slowly woven her spell
over me with her inherent virtues. Speed, seaworthiness, shallow draft,
trailerability, interior space, that great big cockpit, and the absence of
all complex rigging. She looks great and apologizes for nothing.
Douglas Ingram
Red River Canoe & Paddle
Lorette, Manitoba
> So what's an angle grinder? I've never heard of one... and am very
> interested. 600 paddles is a major accomplishment!
>
> At Friday, 22 December 2000, you wrote:
>
> >James, I can't conceive of working without my angle grinder, I'd
> be lost
> >without it. It has been the tool of choice for over 600 paddles
> now. With
> >a little practice I am sure that most people could be able to control
> it.
> >Choosing the right grit is very important.
> >
> >Once you get the hang of it, you can do amazing things, and with more
> >control than you'd think. On the bentshaft and Freestyle blades
> that I do,
> >I routinely shape to very close tolerances and thin edges.
> >
> >The shaped blade faces, the ridge, even the groove, would be easy
> for me to
> >do with the grinder. But, I guess that after 600 paddles, it had
> better be.
> >
> >In the end, we all choose the tools that work best for us.
> >
> >Douglas
> >
> >> Phil, I can't conceive of being able to control a disk sander
> that well.
> >But
> >> I cut the hollow successfully with a belt sander all the time.
> Rough the
> >> shape either by hand or with the shaper, then use the nose of
> the belt
> >> sander to grind the final curve. It takes some practice, but it will
> >work.
> >> Someday I would like to get better, more accurate control of that by
> >> building a special sanding tool; but for now, my beat-up old Makita
> does
> >the
> >> job.
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Philip A Jacobs (jaco0253@jaco0253.email.umn.edu)"
> >> <jaco0253@gold.tc.umn.edu>
> >> To: <baidarka@lists.intelenet.net>
> >> Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2000 6:48 PM
> >> Subject: Re: baidarka FW: Aleut Paddle
> >>
> >>
> >> > I haven't tried this but have been following this thread. Some
> of the
> >> > better wood working catalogs (Lee Valley Tools, Garrett Wade,
> etc.) sell
> >> > scooping tools ('scorps') used to hollow out chair seats, etc.
> on a pull
> >> > stroke. Sort of like a ladle with a sharpened edge and a hole
> in the
> >> > bottom.
> >> >
> >> > Could these grooves or hollows be carved out with a 4 inch disk
> >> > sander/grinder, using the edge of the disk on an angle (like
> cutting
> >coves
> >> > on a table saw)?
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Oooh, I hate to recommend this to anybody. It is a special
> cutter I
> >built
> >> > up myself with the help of a machine shop (the cutter alone
> was nearly
> >> > $500). Tricky, expensive, dangerous as hell. A panel cutter
> won't do
> >it.
> >> > This is more like a 2" high cove cutter with a long straight
> side set at
> >8
> >> > degrees. If you really want to go there, I will send you some
> photos
> >after
> >> > I come back from Alaska. You will need a pretty health shaper
> for this,
> >> > at least 2 hp. I am using a 220v Grizzly. Ask me again next year!
> >> > -
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> >> >
> >> >
> >>
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> >>
> >
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>
>
>
>
> From Jim Mitchell
> on vacation in Juneau Alaska
>
>
>
>
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