Subject: Re: baidarka Feathered paddles
From: Harvey Golden (qayaq@pacifier.com)
Date: Thu Feb 24 2000 - 21:04:27 EST
Dear Topher, and all,
The advantage of using a twisted piece of wood for a carved feathered paddle
is that the grain pattern could (if care is taken) be symmetrical on each
blade face-- i.e. quater-sawn (Vertical Grain) on each blade despite the
varying angles. Such a grain pattern resists cupping especially well. For
a paddle of slight feather, this is not particularly an urgent issue,
especially if the blades are narrow. Some of my flat-pitch paddles are
carved of flat-sawn wood, and show no cupping (on account of their
narrowness, no doubt.)
Using the core (pith?) of a tree to run through the loom and blades would
get very nice symmetry of grain regardless of the blade's degree of feather,
however that 'cut' of wood would be very likely to check along the entire
length on account of the wood's natural movement.
Both methods work, but one is more likely to endure the rigors of paddling
and the rigors of wet-dry cycling.
Harvey
Original:
> > Also, If one were to make a carved (non-laminated) paddle with feathered
> > blades, it would be EXTREMELY advantageous to use a warped (twisted)
piece of wood to begin with. . . .
Response to Original:
> Why? This confuses me as much as the claim that original builders of
kayaks
> couldn't make feathered paddles due to lack of wood. If I were making a
> paddle with hand tools, from drift wood, I would find a long straight
piece,
> 4 inches or so in diameter, and carve it. Thus the loom would have the
core
> running through it, and the grain would be symmetrical for all possible
> feathering angles. It's not like they needed to buy a 4x4 instead of a
2x4.
> What am I missing?
>
> Topher
>
>
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