Subject: Re: baidarka Feathered paddles
From: stmoretti (stmoretti@tin.it)
Date: Mon Feb 28 2000 - 02:59:05 EST
Hello guys,
I May have skipped reading some of the numerous postings on paddles, so
please forgive me if I'm repeating something already said.
I have a comment on the shape and size of the loom. As I reported once from
Copenhagen museum, paddles were of the most odd sizes and shapes, but I was
quite impressed by the constancy in loom section, which was most commonly a
compressed oval, about 4 - 4,5 cm by 3 (1,8-1,6" by 1,25"). I have
experienced that this actually makes the paddle relaxing in use , especially
if you taper a bit closer to the ends, so to shift positions a bit while in
use. Especially useful when cold.
Another feature that I have experienced is not to varnish but to oil the
loom, using a fine grit but not extreme when finishing. Oiled surfaces are
less slippery allowing to ease the grip over the loom when exerting
traction. This helps much releasing tension on the hand-forearm-wrist.
Bye now, Stefano
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Mitchell" <mariner@seanet.com>
To: <baidarka@lists.intelenet.net>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 7:02 AM
Subject: Re: baidarka Feathered paddles
> Yeah, Wayne... good input! I would think that lowering the grip strength
by
> making a larger loom helps a lot. Have you tried making the loom in a
tall
> oval? Wolfgang Brinck shows that in his book. I make mine about 2" high
> using a kind of squashed oval shape. It is very relaxing to hold,
> automatically pulls the paddle into position, and really helps you
maintain
> orientation in a roll. Allows you to hold the blade very loosely, relaxing
> your fingers.
>
> Your Greenland blade should be about as easy to pull through as it gets.
> Only other thing I might suggest -- and I do so quite hesitatingly as it
> appears you are way ahead of me in using these blades -- is to minimize
the
> amount of elbow bending involved in your stroke. Now I am using the Aleut
> blade so it will be a bit different, but I form a "box" between my
shoulders
> and the loom, and basically lock my elbows during the stroke. OK, not
> totally, but enough so that I am forced to rotate my entire trunk into the
> stroke (shoulders parallel to loom) rather than "windmilling" with my
arms.
> In working with a couple intermediates who were complaining of carpal
> tunnel, this approach worked. It delivers all the power of the stroke
into
> the legs, helping lessen stressin your lower arms. Also, since elbow
> movement necessitates wrist movement, it minimizes both.
>
> One more tip that I have been using with paddlers who need help on this,
is
> to leave the loom unvarnished. A matt surface, slightly rough to the
touch,
> can help the paddle adhere to your skin. A varnished or slick paddle
surface
> will cause you to have to clamp tighter to the shaft to control flutter
and
> maintain the proper blade angle. If you are using composite blades, I
often
> coach paddlers to take some emery cloth and sand the glaze off the surface
> of the shaft under their hands. The less grip you need, the better.
>
> Like I say, you are probably way beyond this simple instruction, so I hope
> you find them helpful rather than insulting! Good luck on your paddling!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: wayne steffens <wsteffen@mr.net>
> To: <baidarka@lists.intelenet.net>
> Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2000 8:49 PM
> Subject: Re: baidarka Feathered paddles
>
>
> >I can support your comment about wrist pain from my experience working
with
> >other paddlers. The combination of unfeathered blades and the narrower
> >traditional blades seems to virtually eliminate the stress that causes a
> >carpal tunnel reaction.
>
> It certainly helps but hasnt eliminated it for me anyway. My carpal tunnel
> proplems started when I started kayaking using a one-piece feathered
> paddle. Only a few days of that and my hands were numb (yeah, I might have
> benefited from instruction in proper use of a feathered paddle but the
> damage was done). I immediately switched to non-feathered, and several
> years later to Greenland style. What I found that helps the most though is
> making the loom of my paddles much bigger around than "normal".
>
> Wayne
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