Subject: Re: baidarka Modifying Skene/Putz design?
From: Mike Hanks (m_hanks@hotmail.com)
Date: Wed Jun 28 2000 - 17:28:14 EDT
Rick,
In my first one, I matched the shape of the floors to the hull bottom, so
the tops of the floors are 'V' shaped. I also gave it much smaller radius
deck beams in front of the cockpit. I used the specified dimensions on
western red cedar and mahogany stock. I used brass screws and epoxy at the
joints.
My next one will have either a round or keyhole style cockpit. I will also
be mounting the sole under the floors. I will carve a minicell seat to fit
between the floors and on top of the sole. The deck will be flat, except in
front of the cockpit where I will allow room for my feet and legs to fit
inside, and a sloping cockpit for ease of entry. I plan on using double or
triple thick deack beams around the cockpit with hip braces going between
the cockpit and the floor beams. I will round the tops of the floors, so I
don't catch my heels on them.
I am using 1/2" x 3/4" western red cedar for the majority of the kayak, with
3/4" x 3/4" for the keelson and sheer. I'll use 3/8" x 3/4" mahogany for
the rubrails and keel. I will use single brass screws and polyeurethane
glue at the joints. I will skin it with about 8oz. polyester attached with
monel staples and paint the skin with Elast-o-Seal and Snow-Roof.
Mike
>From: "Rick Demkovich" <zrpd02@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: baidarka@lists.intelenet.net
>To: baidarka@lists.intelenet.net
>Subject: Re: baidarka Modifying Skene/Putz design?
>Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 14:56:44 CDT
>
>I too am building (and modifying as I go) a Putz kayak.
>
>Mine is primarily longleaf pine (what I had from a house remodelling job).
>I glued and screwed all the floors, trusses, stems and keelson/stringers.
>
>However, I am not happy with the deck design. The depth from gunwales to
>top of floors is shallow in this boat (about 6.5"), making it most suitable
>for the Putz-designed open cockpit. I am in the middle of designing beams
>and cockpit for a tighter fit, and would be interested to hear how others
>accomplished this.
>
>Just as reference, I originally laminateda rear cockpit deckbeam from 3/8"
>pine with a plywood stiffener in it (bombproof!!), and made a high
>wishbone-shaped forward cockpit beam. But that fore beam proved to be too
>high for a knee-grip.
>
>
>>From: Bram van der Sluys <bvdsluys@direct.ca>
>>Reply-To: baidarka@lists.intelenet.net
>>To: baidarka@lists.intelenet.net
>>Subject: Re: baidarka Modifying Skene/Putz design?
>>Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 08:30:11 -0700
>>
>>In truss type construction many of the diagonals are loaded in tension and
>>many go through stress reversals, i.e. they switch from tension to
>>compression. Unless very securely lashed the joints will move and the boat
>>will become very flexible as the chines and gunnels are relatively small.
>>
>>In both my kayaks I glued all the joints and later pre-drilled and screwed
>>the joints as a back-up. I may have had only one split piece in the whole
>>boat. I did use clear straight-grained yellow cedar which probably helped
>>a
>>lot.
>>
>>But anyway, try your idea, if it doesn't work you have an excuse to build
>>another 8^)
>>
>>Regards, Bram
>>
>>
>>At 07:57 PM 6/27/00 -0400, you wrote:
>> >In my last message, I meant to ask:
>> >
>> >For no obvious reason -- maybe just the memory for all
>> >the times I've had screws split small pieces of wood --
>> >I'm thinking about using the Skene/Putz design, but
>> >lashing the parts together. Does anyone know of any
>> >good reason not to do it?
>> >
>> >Thanks again.
>> >
>> >Owen Davies
>> >-
>> >Baidarka Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be
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>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
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>
>-
>Baidarka Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be
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