Subject: Re: baidarka waterproofing
From: Harvey Golden (qayaq@pacifier.com)
Date: Fri Mar 24 2000 - 00:01:14 EST
Dear Peter,
I've only been using Polyurethane for about a year and a quarter now, though
my first kayak with that finish is still in excellent condition-- and its
gotten some extreme usage since. It is the 'flexy' kayak I described in my
previous e.mail, and it is also the kayak I used on the 800 mile trip on the
Columbia River. (Polyurethane on 12oz. nylon; 25# kayak-- replica of the
Danish National Museum's 1850's Koniagmiut kayak, surveyed by David
Zimmerly, with restored lines.)
I've not had any problems with cracking. It has endured freezing
temperatures, swamping, heavy loads, and 100 degree temps. and long U.V.
exposure. It has been stored outside most of the time since construction.
Its served me very well, and will last 'til it fails, whereupon I'd use the
same materials again.
Harvey
www.pacifier.com/~qayaq
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter A. Chopelas <pac@premier1.net>
To: <baidarka@lists.intelenet.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 5:09 PM
Subject: RE: baidarka waterproofing
> Harvey,
> I'm at about the same stage as Bob and I have a few ?'s too. It seems to
> me that one part polyurethane floor finish would be too hard and brittle
> for fabric applications, how does this hold up, do you get cracking, etc?
>
> I have found on things other than table tops and floors (where hardness is
> important) that linseed (alkaloid) based oil finishes are more durable: it
> will Shrink less over time, is more flexible, and does not yellow as much
> in the sun. The polyurethane is not only more brittle, making the
cracking
> problem worse when it shrinks, but it has a much stronger bond to the
> substrate also making it a good choice for floors and table tops, but poor
> for sealing art work or fine furniture or antiques where someone may want
> to restore it latter.
>
> I would not think that the bonding is a problem with fabric since you
> should be saturating the fabric with the first layer, and except that
> polyurethane cure faster, oil based finishes on the fabric would be
> superior. (Note that both are cross linked polymers, one is petrochemical
> based, the other plant based). The expensive two part polyurethane are
> chemically different and I suppose would be more flexible and not an issue
> (i.e. just because both are polyurethane's does not mean they will be have
> the same).
>
> What has been your experience over the long term using floor finish on a
> skin boat?
>
> Peter
> Arlington, WA
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Klemick [SMTP:klemick@home.com]
> Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 3:43 PM
> To: baidarka@lists.intelenet.net
> Subject: Re: baidarka waterproofing
>
> Harvey
> bob klemick here, a few ?'s if I may. Are you using the poly on
> canvas or nylon? Do you thin the poly or use it right out of the can?Do
you
> do
> anything to the skin as prep, e.g., Thompsons Waterproofing. I'm just
> getting
> ready to
> skin my boat and gathering as many choices as possible. Thanks
> ............bk
>
> Harvey Golden wrote:
>
> > I use a one-part polyurethane floor finish, Dura-seal brand, with dry
> powder
> > artist pigment (Its not actually made with artists, I understand). It
> costs
> > around $10 a quart, and three coats suffice, requiring just a quart for
> my
> > tiniest kayaks. I've had good luck with it thus far. It's translucent,
> > cheap, and as for the toxicity. . . don't drink it straight from the
can!
> > Harvey
> >
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