Subject: Re: baidarka scantlings
From: James Mitchell (mariner@seanet.com)
Date: Sun Oct 29 2000 - 11:01:30 EST
We've had some long discussions here about tight vs. loose lashings. I have
so far followed Corey's lead in using all tight lashings, mostly because I
am a big BIG chicken. I use a wrap-frap square lashing at every rib-stringer
crossing. The end result is a hull that is very stiff. Corey feels that the
hulls last much longer that way, particularly when we are skinning with
materials that last ten years as opposed to oogurk which gets changed every
spring (offering opportunity to make repairs). Also, the adherence of the
poly coating that soaks through the nylon effectively freezes the stringers
in place. Would we get more hull flex from loose lashings? Guess I will
have to get more guts to find out. Well, so much for that...
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Wainright <wainair@yahoo.com>
To: <baidarka@lists.intelenet.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2000 7:18 AM
Subject: Re: baidarka scantlings
I can see what you mean about the lashing. When I
started lashing I followed the lashing pattern in
Wolfgangs book,but found it didn't sit well with the
half round. So I changed the lashing pattern to hold
them in place a bit more snugly. The loop I did goes
round the rib crosses over the stringer diagonally
loops around the rib on the other side. When you pull
it snug it tightens down the stringer to the rib. The
stringer can't move up or down but it can still slide
the length of the boat.(under force)This should retain
the boats flexibility,I hope. It's hard to explain,
but I'll add a drawing of the lashing pattern and some
detail photos if my sister ever lets me use the
scanner I bought her. Hopefully I'll have something
posted soon. Tom
--- James Mitchell <mariner@seanet.com> wrote:
> I WONDERED about that. Thought you might be
> building a PT boat...
>
> We use redcedar, which you can buy at most lumber
> yards in long 2x2 or 2x4
> boards. I cut them in 1/2" square lengths, then use
> a 1/2" diameter
> half-round router bit on a cheap little router table
> to shape the rounds in
> two passes. I have been tempted to try just making
> it half-round, flat side
> toward the ribs, but I don't think the lashings
> would be very tight. For a
> loose-lashed hull, it might work. The routing is
> tricky, so be SAFE when
> you do this.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Tom Wainright <wainair@yahoo.com>
> To: <baidarka@lists.intelenet.net>
> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2000 6:44 PM
> Subject: Re: baidarka scantlings
>
>
> Ops I made a mistake It was 3/8inch halfround I used
> not 5/8. sorry for the err. Tom
> --- Tom Wainright <wainair@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > hey SeaCaller, The half round I bought was 5/8
> and
> > it
> > was pine because thats all I could get at the
> time.
> > Since then I've also seen it in oak. In Wolfgangs
> > book
> > he suggests ripping stringers of sitka. Were I
> live
> > the sitka is very hard to find and very expensive
> > when
> > you do find it. I didn't bother shaving down the
> > sides
> > to make them thinner to Wolfgangs diamention. I
> > figured the pine being a weaker wood could do with
> a
> > bit extra being there, and they sit very nice on
> the
> > ribs at full width. When I get a hold of my
> sisters
> > scanner I'll scan some photos of the frame and
> post
> > them. Tom
> > --- srelt@iclub.org wrote:
> > > Thanks Tom--
> > > I must have mislead everyone. I do not plan to
> > use
> > > laminated ribs--like you,
> > > willow. About your stringers--what size did you
> > > buy? Pine? What are the
> > > others made of--a spruce? Here I have a choice
> of
> > > the mystery
> > > wood--spruce?--oak, and pine. The smallest I
> have
> > > found yet are still 1/2"
> > > each, laminated into 1". That's in pine only,
> and
> > > the size is why I thought I
> > > would trim them down on each side prior to
> > > installing them.
> > >
> > > SeaCaller
> > > srelt@iclub.org
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