Subject: Re: baidarka glycol
From: James Mitchell (mariner@seanet.com)
Date: Wed Feb 14 2001 - 00:30:25 EST
I don't know what they are talking about. Linseed oil does attract some
dirt, but cedar darkens anyway from time and use so I can't say how much of
that is the oil. I don't mess with UV stuff at all; besides, the wood is
not exposed to UV. As far as waterproofing quality, I don't see that as the
issue. We are not proofing the wood against water, we are preventing damage
from the water that does get into the wood. I suppose the paddles would
take a beating if we left them out in the sun and rain, but that is just
common sense. I varnish the blades of my paddles, but I just soak the looms
with linseed oil so the surface retains a nice amount of tackiness. I'd
just encourage you to stick with the linseed oil, thin it some with turp to
soak deep into new wood, maybe recoat the exposed parts once in awhile,
things like floorboards and such. Try the hull well before you skin it,
because pooled linseed oil stains the nylon.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Raymond" <kayaker37@hotmail.com>
To: <baidarka@lists.intelenet.net>
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 8:57 PM
Subject: Re: baidarka glycol
> Hi James,
>
> From some web surfing I came across this statement and it is echoed across
a
> number of sites. "Linseed oil has no waterproofing properties. Finally,
over
> time, linseed oil turns a wood finish very dark, almost black" from uv
> exposure and mildew. Granted this is from finish makers, so is this some
> kind of advertising thing? Do you need to add uv or mildew inhibitors?
>
> Of course, it sounds better than glycol.
>
> Thanks,
> Paul
>
>
>
> >I'd look a little further, Gardner. I'd be afraid of attracting insects
and
> >vermin to the sweetness of ethylene glycol. Really, I'd recommend
sticking
> >to linseed oil and turpentine. Use the turp to thin the oil, especially
> >for
> >the first coat. I do three coats on frame pieces, and then after
everything
> >is tied I paint about a quart of linseed oil all over the frame. I dry it
> >with paper towels, and let it sit a few days to soak.
>
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