Subject: Re: baidarka Tool for hollowing (less than 600) paddles
From: James Mitchell (mariner@seanet.com)
Date: Wed Jan 03 2001 - 22:32:00 EST
I am looking forward to getting a draw tool rather than a push tool. I think
it would do less grain damage, and avoid some of the digs that happen
occasionally with the gouge.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Manders" <manderspw@sprintmail.com>
To: <baidarka@lists.intelenet.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 8:44 AM
Subject: baidarka Tool for hollowing (less than 600) paddles
> Hope this is helpful with regard to recent posts.
>
> A while ago I was looking for ways to cut the relatively shallow
> longitudinal hollows on paddles, frame parts etc. that seem to call for a
> set of radius planes which I don't have. A silent, dust-free tool for
> paring wide areas to a shallow hollow can be made by shaping the
> end of a 1-1/2 or 2 inch chisel to a radius of about 2 inches. Since
> the cutting action is paring, the sharpening angle, which is normally 30
> degrees when purchased, can be reduced to 15 degrees or so.
>
> For good control of the cut, sharpen as you would a carving gouge with a
> radius to the bevel (i.e. not flat or hollow ground).
>
> Regular bevel edged chisels bought in hardware stores (Stanley, Buck,
etc.)
> are soft enough to be shaped with a file (of course, it would be more fun
> and less exercise to use an angle grinder.) They are inexpensive ($12)
> compared to fishtail gouges, scorps, radius spokeshaves and the like. The
> plastic handle will be too short, but it's easy to twist it off and
replace
> it with a longer wooden one. Note, the radius of the channel cut is larger
> than the radius of the end of the chisel due to the shallow cutting angle.
> You can lean on this tool and move a lot of soft wood quickly.
>
> While I'm more of the in-touch-with-nature hand-tool persuasion when it
> comes to working wood, I must admit there is a certain pyrotechnic thrill
to
> applying an angle grinder to steel.
>
> Peter Manders.
>
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