Subject: Re: [baidarka] Help?
From: Bill Samson (bill.samson@tesco.net)
Date: Wed Sep 19 2001 - 03:45:52 EDT
A similar trick that I learned while training as a piano technician is
regularly used for repairing broken piano keys (which usually break in the
region of the pivot hole).
First of all the break is glued up, clamped, and left to set. Once set, the
thickness of a veneer (1/32"ish) is sanded from each side of the key,
extending a couple of inches either side. Finally pieces of veneer are
glued on the sides, then sanded to make the whole thing the same dimensions
as it was before the break took place. The final product is as strong, if
not stronger than the original key.
I guess that glass cloth and epoxy would be even stronger than veneer.
Bill Samson
-----Original Message-----
From: John Gerlach <gerlach1@pacbell.net>
To: baidarka@paddlewise.net <baidarka@paddlewise.net>
Date: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 11:18 PM
Subject: RE: [baidarka] Help?
>You could make a scarf. Cut a solid piece of wood that matches the outside
>curvature of the gunwale and is about 2 feet long. Perhaps you could attach
>it with dry wall screws driven from the inside of the boat into the last
six
>inches of each end. Then make a router template from masonite in the form
of
>a shallow curve 1 foot long that would extend 6 inches on each side of the
>break. The curve should extend the full width of the piece at the break.
>Then use a router to cut a fair curve out of the gunwale. Next cut a stack
>of thin pieces a little longer than 1 foot and the same depth as the broken
>piece and laminate a curved splice with the deepest part of the hollow
>section equal to the width of the gunwale. Next make another router
template
>that matches the outside curve of the gunwale using the solid piece of wood
>that you previously cut as a template, shift the router template so that
the
>router follows the inside curve of the gunwale, and trim off the excess
ends
>of the splice.
>
>John Gerlach
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-baidarka@paddlewise.net
>[mailto:owner-baidarka@paddlewise.net]On Behalf Of Peter Chopelas
>Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 8:14 AM
>To: baidarka@paddlewise.net
>Subject: Re: [baidarka] Help?
>
>
>Chuck wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>>Why not just inject epoxy resin into as much of the crack as possible, and
>
>
>then lash it?
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>That would work fine if you have a split type failure, and would actually
be
>a
>superior repair. Though I think I would use PU type glue.
>
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>
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>
>However, if it broke across the grain, or because of grain run-out or a
>knot,
>you probably would not have enough area to make the repair strong
>enough--the
>next layer of wood would fail the way the first layer did.
>
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>
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>So it depends on how and why it failed. The splice repair bypasses the
>failed
>area, carrying the loads around the defect in the splice material,
>regardless
>of the cause of failure.
>
>
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>
>Peter
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>
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