Subject: Re: [baidarka] Greenland Paddle
From: brian.nystrom@att.net
Date: Fri Jan 25 2002 - 10:57:12 EST
> There is still a real boiled linseed oil commercially available, from the
> Tried and True brand name. It is actually heated to the point that it is
> polymerized and I find it provides a much better finish than the oil with
> added dryers you get at Home Depot. It dries quicker and much harder, and
> doesn't contain those toxic heavy metals. Of course the stuff with metallic
> dryers is cheaper, which is why they sell so much of it. I feel better
> using the eco-friendly product. I use it on furniture I build.
The product you describe is a polymerized oil, not a "boiled" oil. There is a HUGE difference in the finish. Polymerized oils produce a hard film finish, just like varnish.
Boiled oils are not actually boiled and never were. Apparently, the type of driers used in years past required the oil to be heated when adding them, but not actually to the boiling point. With metallic driers, this is not the case.
> You can get it plain (Danish Oil),
This is a blend of polymerized and unpolymerized oils. It's similar to what you would get from combining boiled linseed oil and varnish.
> mixed with a varnish for a film finish,
I'm not sure why they do this, since pure polymerized oil does produce a film finish. Pehaps it's less expensive to mix it with varnish or the varnish adds other properties.
> or mixed with beeswax.
Adding beeswax softens the finish, so it's more like a traditional oil finish. Frankly, I don't see the point. You end up with a very expensive product that imitates a much cheaper one. Go figure. I guess I'll have to try mixing beeswax with linseed oil and/or varnish to see what the results are.
> I'd go with the beeswax mixture for breathable protection.
I suspect that their "Danish" oil is probably better suited to paddles, but it depends on what type of finish you want. They tout the beeswax mixture as a furniture finish that imitates the "antique" look and patina.
> I plan to use the varnish finish on my baidarka frame,
I'd be a bit concerned about this finish cracking, since it's a hard film. Perhaps it would be wise to apply some to a piece of stringer stock and test flex it over the course of a few months.
> but for paddles the problem with film finish is I think it wouldn't grip as well
> when wet.
I agree. This is what you get with varnish finishes. Sanding them with 400 or 600 grit wet/dry paper, or fine Scotchbrite to remove the shine helps, but I still find that my hands slip on the paddle occasionally.
BTW, my comments are not meant to imply that Tried and True finishes are not fine products. I just find that their marketing info is somewhat confusing and misleading. It seems to me that you end up spending a lot of money for something that's no better than less expensive products, at least from a finishing standpoint. If the environmental advantages appeal to you, that's perfectly understandable. I may even order some of their "Danish" oil, since Greg Stamer has used it and likes it.
-- RegardsBrian - Baidarka Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside Baidarka or Baidarka archives without author's permission Submissions: baidarka@paddlewise.net Subscriptions: baidarka-request@paddlewise.net Searchable archive: http://rtpnet.org/robroy/baidarka
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b27 : Fri Feb 01 2002 - 01:30:03 EST