Subject: Re: [baidarka] PVC skins
From: Bram van der Sluys (bvdsluys@telus.net)
Date: Thu May 01 2003 - 19:54:06 EDT
At 11:47 AM 5/1/03 -0600, you wrote:
>Hi Bram,
>
>PVC has been used on numerous commercial folding kayaks for many years.
>Pouch and Atlatl come to mind, as does Folbot a number of years ago.
>Hendrik and Gerald Maroske of Germany have been using "Stamoid" PVC for
>several years, before 1997 I believe. I've read of it's use by
>homebuilders, mostly on folders, many years earlier.
>
>My interest in the material stems from my association with Hendrik
>Maroske. I had many conversations sometime back with Stefano, but don't
>believe he completed a kayak skin using PVC, though he did show some
>interest in the material.
>
>Hendrik and Gerald cut their skins in "chine" panels that are sewn and
>then covered with glued on rub strips. This results is a very clean
>looking skin. My approach is much simpler as I glue the one piece hull to
>the one piece deck at the gunwales.
>
>My "Coverlight" PVC skins, as a result, are not a smooth looking in
>certain areas of the hull. But for me, the simplicity, ease of
>construction, and durability of this method is a fair trade-off. What
>method did you use ?
>
>Though PVC skins have been around a long time, it's use by homebuilders
>seems quite limited in comparison to the sewn and coated canvas, nylon,
>and polyester skins so common in traditional SOF construction.
>
>Best,
>Tom
Hi Tom:
Thanks for your reply. I have built two Putz style kayaks and am in the
middle of a Shields baidarka. My first was built fairly close to the lines
in the book except I gave it more rocker and lengthened it to 18 ft., why I
don't know(G) longer is faster, right? Due to size 11 feet I found the
original boat far too restrictive for my feet. I used canvas as the book
suggested but due to insufficient knowledge used too light a grade. I
probably did not tighten it well enough and was scared to wet the canvas in
fear it would implode the kayak. After the paint cured (marine enamel) I
found it eggshell cracked very easily. To say the least I wasn't that happy
with the outcome.
The second boat I played with the lines a lot, more rocker, steepened the
deadrise, widened it and gave the deck more curvature all in the hope of
some more foot room. Well I got that and more, too much in fact, I now have
a barge, a 35 lb one though. The skin was done in 4 hull panels with 3/4"
lap seams. One seam is on the keel so the glued joint could be well rolled
to get a proper joint, they are virtually indestructible. The other lap
seams are on the chine stringers, again to have backing in order to roll
the seams. The hull to deck joint is just stapled and covered with a white
oak shear strip. To get the PVC to conform evenly to the hull shape with no
wrinkles I used the same method used by canoe builders for the canvas skin.
The skin panels were pulled tightly in the long direction before installing
the panel to the boat. This worked well enough as I don't have wrinkles.
Best Regards
Bram
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