Subject: Re: [baidarka] Frame treatments (avoiding rot, etc.)
From: Peter Chopelas (pac@premier1.net)
Date: Mon May 05 2003 - 21:02:34 EDT
> I'm sure you meant to say the opposite, because white cedar is definitely
> softer and weaker than red. But it does bend better, I guess, although I
> didn't have much luck at it.
actually, again it depends what you are talking about (I meant to be brief,
but since you brought it up):
There is commercially harvested: Alaska Cedar, Incense Cedar, Port Orford
Cedar, Western Red Cedar, Pacific Coast Yellow Cedar and Northern Western
Red Cedar.
all are kind of similar, but each has certain structural properties that are
different for detailed parts of a kayak. I was using the "white" and "red"
generically, but you are correct, there are some "white" cedars that are
soft and light.
As far as "red" oak goes, there is commercially harvested: Black Oak,
Cherrybark Oak, Laurel Oak, Northern red oak, pin oak , scarlet oak,
southern red oak, water oak, willow oak (all of these are lumped into a
category of "red oak").
under "white" oak: Bur oak, chestnut oak, live oak, overcoup oak, post oak,
swamp chestnut oak, swamp white oak, and white oak.
take your pick...
> One of these days I hope to start building using salvaged wood too. Its
> very much in the spirit of traditional kayak building, and much cheaper.
> But its hard to break the addiction of clear green wood once you've tried
> it.
I have a different kind of addiction, it is called holding on to my money.
I just can not bring myself to cut up a perfectly good, clear piece of wood
I just paid my hard earned money to get, even for a kayak frame. I know if
I keep my eyes open in my normal routines I will eventually run across
someone tearing down an old building, or a construction site with a huge
pile of scrap wood with a "free" sign in front of it.
Peter
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