Subject: Re: [baidarka] Glue
From: William Nettles (netttles@adelphia.net)
Date: Thu Dec 16 2004 - 15:55:31 EST
The thing about Gorilla Glue and other PVAs is that they are moisture
cured.
I spritz a joint with a plant sprayer bottle or wipe it down with a wet
rag before I use Gorilla Glue. This is not entirely necessary but in
Southern California the humidity is pretty low so it helps.
If I didn't add water than the PVA glue would just take longer to foam
and set the connection.
There's been a lot written about these new glues in FineWoodworking
Magazine.
I can't say I have any experience with gluing plastic parts to wood,
but just about everything I remember seeing, about fastening parts not
made of wood, on the Guillemot Kayak discussion forum is that epoxy is
usually recommended.
Peter's point needs to be considered from the swelling POV. The
plastic isn't going to swell but the wood will. When it shrinks it
might pop the glue connection.
Will
On Dec 16, 2004, at 12:33 PM, Peter Chopelas wrote:
> I think doug fir is more dimensionally stable than the less dense
> woods, and
> you would be best with glue that has some flexablity like Gorilla Glue
> (vs.
> epoxy for example. You might also consider baking the wood in a low
> temp
> oven for a 3-4 hours to dry it out as much as possible, and then
> surface
> applying only as much moisture as you need for the glue. Also rough
> up the
> bonding surface of the plastic parts with 220 grit sand paper before
> you
> clean them. good luck.
>
> Peter
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