Subject: Re: [baidarka] steaming frames
From: Peter Chopelas (pac@premier1.net)
Date: Thu Dec 30 2004 - 21:27:28 EST
> Some of the frames look like they are made of oak. That's a bit
> pricey around here (Northwest).
Not so pricey as you might think. I routinely salvage large amount of oak
plank around here for little or nothing (I live in Arlington, WA, just north
of Everett). I have gotten all of my 'steaming' oak for free. There are
still a lot of places that use T and G oak floor boards that you can find a
few fairly straight grained pieces in the stack from a supplier. Also in
Bellingham there is a place called "Re-Store" (there is a similar place in
Seattle too) that sells salvaged building supplies, they always have large
quantities of solid oak floor boards real cheap (I did two floors in my
house from their salvaged oak flooring, the left overs I have used for steam
bending kayak ribs). I have also salvaged oak from shipping crates and
pallets that come from the east coast, the wood is pretty rough and full of
knots, but since the rib stock is short you can usually find enough "clear"
material to cut out enough ribs. I also will stop by old building sites
that are being demolished to look around for usable wood to salvage. I have
found enough quality material to build about 4 kayaks (including the
gunwales, the hardest to find because of the length) in just two or three
job sites. You just need to keep your eyes open for it, and be willing to
re-saw it to the size you need (and be willing to live with a few old nail
holes in it). If you use salvaged lumber for steaming, I rip it into 1/4 x
3/4 in strips and soak it in water for a few days first (it is usually
pretty dry when it can be 80+ years old!)
> I'm wondering if perhaps Red Cedar
> wouldn't work. Does anyone here have experience steam bending 3/4"
> Red Cedar?
I have experimentally steam bent Red Cedar, and it can be done. My results
were not very promising. It is a very low density wood, and the pithy part
between the grains tends to get too soft and the grain buckles or crimps on
the inside radius. It is not attractive, and it does not look very strong.
Because of this I have not attempted to use it for rib stock (though I have
used Red Cedar for every other part of the hull, including stringers,
gunwales, deck beams and bow/stern plates). I like it for the non-bent
parts because it is light and highly rot resistant, and easy to work. What
does work well for steam bending that you can get in the Northwest is
Alaskan Yellow Cedar (some simply call it Yellow Cedar). It is very
different from Red Cedar, it is tight grained and more dense, usually mostly
clear, and smells very different. It is the one of the best steaming woods
I have ever used, and it is easy to work, lighter than oak, and rot
resistant too. Stop by at places that specialize in cedar lumber, most will
have a small stock available, all you will need is one clear plank to cut
your ribs from.
Happy New Year everyone, and safe paddling.
Peter
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