Subject: Re: [baidarka] Bending ribs on Greenland
From: James Mitchell (baidarka@earthlink.net)
Date: Sun Feb 29 2004 - 17:52:52 EST
I have used station frames to approximate the shape of the chines, but
I remove them as soon as I can. I set a couple ribs on either side, and
then take them out. These hulls have much more flex than a carvel hull,
and I think the frames would interfere with that.
On Mar 1, 2004, at 7:27 AM, steveJ wrote:
> I'm about ready to start bending some ribs on a Greenland style kayak.
> I've been using various books and information resources for techniques
> and procedures.
> One thing that puzzles me is the way that the ribs are bent free hand
> to the desired
> shape and then the longitudinals are lashed in and faired.
> Doesn't it make more sense to set the longitudinals in place using
> section molds with notches cut to
> receive the keel and chines and then bend the ribs by steaming and
> springing the rib to the points
> established by the longitudinals? This would follow traditional bent
> frame carvel planked boatbuilding
> methods and would eliminate the novice having to try to "eyeball" the
> correct shape of the rib. It would
> also eliminate having to calculate the length of the rib prior to
> bending. Just bend the rib roughly so it fits
> between the gunnels and clamp it to the keel and chines. When dry,
> mark and cut the ends by adding the depth of the mortises. Remove the
> keel and chines which are temporarily lashed in place and install the
> ribs in the usual manner. Although the bend would be a bit tighter
> than the real distance between gunnels, it seems like it wouldn't
> matter and the ribs would have some spring back and fit in the
> mortises anyway What am I missing?
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>
James Mitchell
Email: baidarka@earthlink.net
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