Subject: Re: [baidarka] building without ribs
From: Peter Chopelas (pac@premier1.net)
Date: Thu Sep 02 2004 - 16:34:33 EDT
> I am building a 16' wood frame boat and intend to cover it with
> nylon. It is similar to folding boats in frame design in that it
> doesn't have steam bent ribs - only 7 cross frames (also wood).
I have done similar construction, I have used plywood frames cut out on a
bandsaw. I have also used bent aluminum frames (1/8 x 1 in bar stock), with
wood stringers, screwed to the gunwales with a stainless 1/4 in screw at
each rib, and lashing at the stringers. I am also constemplaning making
laminated "hoop" frames (combines both rib and deck beam) requireing about
seven total. If the spacing of the frames is more than about 18 inches, you
might want to use slightly larger stringer stock since they could crack when
landing/handling if the stringers are unsupported for such a long span.
there are several old designs that use either plywood frame or built up
"truss" like frames instead of separate deck beams and small ribs afixed to
the gunwales. And many larger scale wood boats have used this construction
method for years as well.
It works fine, and as you noted, folders are built this way. How are you
going to make the ribs/frame?
> Also, for this boat I am down to either one part oil based or 2 part
> urethane paint. Since I'm going to paint outside I'm not that
> concerned about fumes, so which would be the 'best'. Any brand names?
I have used many of the varirious sealants on kayaks, and have experimented
on small swatches of cloth with even more. I like one part oil based PU
(Minwax brand "fast drying", about $20 a gal from Lowe's). It is relatively
inexpensive, toxisity is not a problem, it is readily available, and
reasonably tough, it is easy to tint, fast curing, and easy to do a quick
touch-up if necessary. The 2 part PU is one of the toughest sealants, but
is it also the most costly, hardest to get, and hightly toxic.
Since I am on my sixth kayak (with at least 3 more in the planing stages),
cost is almost the single most imporant factor for me. I can pick up
parcial cans of oil based paint for next to nothing (garage sales, etc.) and
mix to get the color I like, but the oil based paint eventualy cracks since
it continues to get harder and harder each year. You have to recoat it
every few years to keep it water tight, and you eventually must replace the
whole skin. Paint is great for an inexpensive kids kayak that your child
will out grow in a few years any way, but the $20 or so for one part PU is
worth the extra cost to get the extra life out of the skin. The Greenland
kayak I just finished building for my daughter only cost about $42 out of
pocket since all of the lumber was salvaged and it only used 1/4 gal. of
sealent (the most expensive "part" was the $30 for the raw nylon fabric). I
tinted the sealant with oil based wood stain to get brown shade to look like
"skin" (my daughter's choice), even though she decorated the bare nylon with
felt pens before I sealed it. It is 15'6" LOA by 19" beam.
I hope this helps, good luck.
Peter
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