Pakyak Usage F.A.Q.1. Photos seem to show some flexing along joints with some extreme bends, is this the norm?
This happens if the tension lines are too loose or missing. Look at page 4 of the on-line plans, cockpit end assembly, under cockpit tension cable. This is definitely a factor for big guys.
I would recommend lengthening the stringers. If you add the same amount to each stringer (4" each to make it 14', 6" each to make it 15' overall) and the aluminum side rails too, all the other parts can stay the same.
No, I haven't, and I haven't thought through what effect this would have, but I suspect it would work okay. I think, though, that the only place the 1/2" might not be quite enough would be in the cockpit section, and you could reinforce that with a solid plywood seat (instead of the center thwart piece).
Take along a screwdriver and a roll of duct tape.
There's at least a cubic foot in each end, fore and aft of the cockpit.
Pretty obviously it does not follow standard sea kayak design lines, and sea kayaks are generally longer than 12 feet. But aside from that my experience is that it works great on open water. If you are up against a foot of chop, some of it will wash over the boat, but the skirt will keep most of that out of your cockpit.
I've done them, but it's not as easy as in a more rounded hull. But by the same token the PakYak hull is more stable, so you're less likely to capsize. And I've worked out a sea sock that seals off the ends from the cockpit, so if you do go over and can't right it only the cockpit will flood.
It could be, but there's a lot more detail work than for most non-folding strip built or skin on frame designs.
Yes, but you might feel a bit cramped if you have long legs. Consider making a stretched version.
The boat handles rougher water fine, if you use the spray skirt.
Sure, on calm water, or if she doesn't mind getting a bit wet. You can make a half-skirt or deck to cover just the front part of the cockpit to keep out occasional spray and splashes.