Subject: Re: [baidarka] Plastic SOF Ideas / Questions
From: Wayne Martin (wayne.martin@prodigy.net)
Date: Tue Oct 23 2001 - 09:06:03 EDT
Peter,
Thanks for your responses. I'll continue conversationally...
At 08:22 PM 10/22/01 -0700, you wrote:
>I
>am not exactly sure what you are describing with your post, could you
describe
>it a little better?
You were asking about how I conceive of the truss portion of Putz's boat.
Here's what I have come up with (with great help from Paul Jacobson on the
kayakforum list).
I would use PVC stringers (as in other parts of the boat) for the top and
bottom of the "truss". But instead of fabricating a truss out of PVC
(which is an option), I would simply make a "c-beam" by putting a properly
sized section of 1/4 plywood on the interior of these stringers. I'll try
a side view text based drawing:
IO
I
I
IO
Actually, that captures it quite well, where the "I" is plywood and the "O"
is PVC pipe. The left side is the interior of the boat and the right side
is the exterior. I plan to fasten the plywood to the PVC stringers with
bolts, and think I'll sink them in through the exterior of the pipe so they
won't rub on the skin - and also so they only tighten down on 1 pipe wall
and the plywood. It seems to me that they will provide the boat with
stiffness.
>If the gunwale and chine form a truss slip fit joints (like tent poles) will
>not work since the 'truss' members have to be able to take both tension and
>compression loads.
As I've described it above, do you think my 'c-beam' will tolerate these
tensions and pressures? I am uncertain how to make my c-beam dismantle
well. Any good ideas?
For the stringer/rib joint:
> A
>better connection than the cable ties I would think would be these plastic
>screw type clamps purchased from tool vendors at street fairs.
I have abandoned the folly of cable ties. They were entirely too loose.
Right now I'm using bolts with wing nuts and washers. I'm very interested
in the plastic clamps you mention. Does anyone know of a web source for
such items?
About the skin:
>You will also need a way to put tension on the
>skin in the fore and aft direction as well, most makers use some kind of
>over-center device built into the frame.
I've sensed this will be a problem to be solved. I'm not sure how I'd do
this other than to have a strap or cord that I pull on and anchor to a rib.
Any simple but effective ideas?
>For the coaming consider just leaving the hoop to "float" in the skin,
this is
>common with folders and even some traditional native designs.
Great idea!
Regarding a seat:
>With your set up you can simply make a sling type
>seat that puts you several inches lower in the hull and you might be able to
>make it a few inches narrower without a noticeable loss in primary stability.
>making it a bit lighter, faster and easier to paddle I suspect.
Are there any examples on the web? This sounds very interesting to me, but
I don't have a clue where to begin. Are sling seats comfortable?
Re tarps for skin:
>Great way to get tarp material BTW, I'll start checking around here with the
>local banner companies too!
It really changes the way you look at billboards! I have already
identified several in my area that would make great skins because of the
colors/designs. Would they really notice if I climbed up and used a blade
to liberate a 5'x20' section that was particularly nice? Or if they did
notice, would they mind?
Many thanks for your input, Peter.
Warmly,
Wayne
<><><><><><><><><><><>
Wayne Martin, LMSW-ACP
wayne.martin@prodigy.net
817.456.3489
<><><><><><><><><><><>
You don't always have to
ch
op
with the sword of truth.
YOU CAN POINT> WITH IT, TOO. Anne Lamott
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