Re: baidarka Angle grinders


Subject: Re: baidarka Angle grinders
From: Douglas Ingram (redcanoe@pangea.ca)
Date: Sun Dec 31 2000 - 17:05:52 EST


Sure,

www.wilds.mb.ca/redriver

Kirk had told me that he couldn't access it, I checked it yesterday and its
working.

Douglas Ingram
Red River Canoe & Paddle
Lorette, Manitoba
----- Original Message -----
From: James Mitchell <mariner@seanet.com>
To: <baidarka@lists.intelenet.net>
Sent: Friday, December 29, 2000 10:45 PM
Subject: Re: baidarka Angle grinders

Sure

> Doug, could you please send me the web site again for the pictures of your
> paddles? Thanks!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Douglas Ingram" <redcanoe@pangea.ca>
> To: <baidarka@lists.intelenet.net>
> Sent: Friday, December 29, 2000 3:10 PM
> Subject: Re: baidarka Angle grinders
>
>
> > John,
> >
> > I'm waiting for my present Black & Decker Industrial/professiomnal
> grinder
> > to wear out. Its taking a long time. The only real complaint that I
have
> > about it is the locking mechanism to hold the spindle firm whilst you
> twist
> > the discs to change them. It uses a little button on top of the grinder
> > head, and after awhile it doesn't hold the spindle.
> >
> > Go for a grinder that allows you to set a wrench around the spindle.
> >
> > Last time I looked at grinders, I was favourable impressed by the Porter
> > Cable unit. It had the essential features that I liked about the B&W
> unit,
> > plus the wrench option. On the B&W unit, I like the switch, which is a
> long
> > lever along the bottom with an integral safety lock. You pick up the
> > grinder and turn it on all with unified motions. If for some reason you
> let
> > the grinder go, fall, cut yourself, etc, you let go of the grinder and
it
> > turns off. Not something that happens with other kinds of switches.
> >
> > Weight is an issue. You should be able tohold and control the unit with
> one
> > hand if needed, and you should be able to use it over a period of time.
> So
> > check for vibration too.
> >
> > While I recognize the value of vacume attachments, the unfortunate
reality
> > is that they hinder to work. So does that D--- extra handle that seems
> like
> > such a great idea for other applications. The finger guard befalls much
> the
> > same fate. These features pretty much force you to work with just the
> front
> > edge of the disc, when you really want to work with the sides too.
> >
> > Learn to work with the flat of the disc when neccessary, and with the
edge
> > for deep digging. Set the trailing edge of the disc, relative to the
> > movement of the disc across the work surface, to the work. If you use
the
> > leading edge you risk having it "bump" into something and gouging deeper
> > into the wood that you want as it stops its travel.
> >
> > Keep your arm moving in smooth controlled movements. any ingering will
> > cause the grinder to remove excess stock locally. Pay attention to your
> > speed of movement, and your ability to hold the grinder so that the disc
> > presents flat. Working on the edge makes it VERY difficult to acheive
> > anything like a smooth surface. Leave the edge for diggin deep
> >
> > I use 24 grit fiber backed discs for general shaping, and 100 grit discs
> for
> > surfacing, form that point I am ready to sand. I have been very
> frustrated
> > getting good disc backers to keep the disc stiff enough, or flexible
> enough,
> > and with close enough support. In the end, I just put two discs behind
> the
> > one I am working with. Fiber backed discs like to bend with changes in
the
> > humidity, store them firmly flat, and if you stack them as backers,
place
> > them 90 degrees to each other to cancel out the curves.
> >
> > Well, back out to the shop to make some more dust with my grinder.
> Nothing
> > like shaping a dozen paddle blades at a time to make you appreciate a
good
> > grinder. Which brings me to the most important point:
> >
> > PRATCICE! PRACTICE! PRACTICE!!!!
> >
> > I always tell my students that fast tools make fast mistakes, and pay
> > attention to where your fingers are at all times!
> >
> > Good luck.
> >
> > Douglas Ingram
> > Red River Canoe & Paddle
> > Lorette, Manitoba
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: John Gerlach <gerlach1@pacbell.net>
> > To: <baidarka@lists.intelenet.net>
> > Sent: Friday, December 29, 2000 1:44 PM
> > Subject: RE: baidarka Angle grinders
> >
> >
> > > Ok, I'm interested in trying one of these magical tools. Do the
artistic
> > > grinders on the list have any suggestions as to techniques, brands,
> size,
> > > setup, vacuum attachments, disks, etc.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > John Gerlach
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-baidarka@lists.intelenet.net
> > > [mailto:owner-baidarka@lists.intelenet.net]On Behalf Of Douglas Ingram
> > > Sent: Friday, December 29, 2000 10:01 AM
> > > To: baidarka@lists.intelenet.net
> > > Subject: Re: baidarka FW: Aleut Paddle
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi James,
> > >
> > > Philip answered the "what's an angle grinder! question pretty well. I
> > would
> > > add that I never put 4" discs on a 4" grinder. I always use 5". This
> > > allows a bit of flex to the edge of the disc, giving me more of a feel
> of
> > > what I am doing, and allowing me to work the disc flatter. The 4"
 discs
> > are
> > > much stiffer and force you to work more on its edge. I have, in the
> past,
> > > put 8" discs on the small grinder, this allows the discs to be worked
> very
> > > flat, as it will actuall bend to the work.
> > >
> > > This is the most valuable shaping tool that I own. Some have joked
that
> > it
> > > is my "magic" tool, I use it for so many different tasks, it would be
> > > difficult to list. I would encourage anyone who does much complex
wood
> > > shaping to become familiar with its capacities.
> > >
> > > Sure, it makes a lot of dust. I do not believe that it is panacea for
> > every
> > > task or situation. I will offer this, though, that when one is
working
> to
> > > close tolerances, abrasives often offer greater control in varying
grain
> > > conditions than cutting tools. Perhaps I should restate that as being
> > more
> > > consistently predictable. Also, for many complex shaping situations,
it
> > is
> > > very fast and predictable. I can't think of a better way to carve
> portage
> > > yokes.
> > >
> > > 600 paddle, soon to be 620, isn't such a big deal. If its your work,
> and
> > > you've been doing it for awhile, it all adds up. If you would like to
> > take
> > > a look at them, go to: www.wilds.mb.ca/redriver
> > >
> > > I am curious to see how long it takes me to make up the Aleut paddle.
I
> > > just got my brother to acces the file for, and he is printing it up
for
> > me.
> > > I am looking forward to seeing the drawings. I am going to try it out
> > first
> > > for my 10 year old son. anyone have thoughts about proper scaling?
> > >
> > > We are also starting up a kayak for him over the christmas break. A
> good
> > > father son project. Still thinking about what to build, I expect that
I
> > > will finalize that as we start.
> > >
> > > Oh, back to those sailing boats. I do like the Haven 12 1/2 a lot.
But
> > if
> > > I am going to go through the effort of building a sailing boat, my
> > ambitions
> > > for its use will be more ambitious than day sailing. I want something
> > that
> > > can keep on going. For day sailing, I would rather rig up a canoe.
> > >
> > > I have always loved the look and philosohpy of Albert Strange's boats.
> > > Especially Sheila, Sheila II, and Wenda. Roxanne has slowly woven her
> > spell
> > > over me with her inherent virtues. Speed, seaworthiness, shallow
draft,
> > > trailerability, interior space, that great big cockpit, and the
absence
> of
> > > all complex rigging. She looks great and apologizes for nothing.
> > >
> > > Douglas Ingram
> > > Red River Canoe & Paddle
> > > Lorette, Manitoba
> > >
> > > > So what's an angle grinder? I've never heard of one... and am very
> > > > interested. 600 paddles is a major accomplishment!
> > > >
> > > > At Friday, 22 December 2000, you wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >James, I can't conceive of working without my angle grinder, I'd
> > > > be lost
> > > > >without it. It has been the tool of choice for over 600 paddles
> > > > now. With
> > > > >a little practice I am sure that most people could be able to
control
> > > > it.
> > > > >Choosing the right grit is very important.
> > > > >
> > > > >Once you get the hang of it, you can do amazing things, and with
more
> > > > >control than you'd think. On the bentshaft and Freestyle blades
> > > > that I do,
> > > > >I routinely shape to very close tolerances and thin edges.
> > > > >
> > > > >The shaped blade faces, the ridge, even the groove, would be easy
> > > > for me to
> > > > >do with the grinder. But, I guess that after 600 paddles, it had
> > > > better be.
> > > > >
> > > > >In the end, we all choose the tools that work best for us.
> > > > >
> > > > >Douglas
> > > > >
> > > > >> Phil, I can't conceive of being able to control a disk sander
> > > > that well.
> > > > >But
> > > > >> I cut the hollow successfully with a belt sander all the time.
> > > > Rough the
> > > > >> shape either by hand or with the shaper, then use the nose of
> > > > the belt
> > > > >> sander to grind the final curve. It takes some practice, but it
> will
> > > > >work.
> > > > >> Someday I would like to get better, more accurate control of that
> by
> > > > >> building a special sanding tool; but for now, my beat-up old
Makita
> > > > does
> > > > >the
> > > > >> job.
> > > > >>
> > > > >> ----- Original Message -----
> > > > >> From: "Philip A Jacobs (jaco0253@jaco0253.email.umn.edu)"
> > > > >> <jaco0253@gold.tc.umn.edu>
> > > > >> To: <baidarka@lists.intelenet.net>
> > > > >> Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2000 6:48 PM
> > > > >> Subject: Re: baidarka FW: Aleut Paddle
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >> > I haven't tried this but have been following this thread. Some
> > > > of the
> > > > >> > better wood working catalogs (Lee Valley Tools, Garrett Wade,
> > > > etc.) sell
> > > > >> > scooping tools ('scorps') used to hollow out chair seats, etc.
> > > > on a pull
> > > > >> > stroke. Sort of like a ladle with a sharpened edge and a hole
> > > > in the
> > > > >> > bottom.
> > > > >> >
> > > > >> > Could these grooves or hollows be carved out with a 4 inch disk
> > > > >> > sander/grinder, using the edge of the disk on an angle (like
> > > > cutting
> > > > >coves
> > > > >> > on a table saw)?
> > > > >> >
> > > > >> >
> > > > >> > Oooh, I hate to recommend this to anybody. It is a special
> > > > cutter I
> > > > >built
> > > > >> > up myself with the help of a machine shop (the cutter alone
> > > > was nearly
> > > > >> > $500). Tricky, expensive, dangerous as hell. A panel cutter
> > > > won't do
> > > > >it.
> > > > >> > This is more like a 2" high cove cutter with a long straight
> > > > side set at
> > > > >8
> > > > >> > degrees. If you really want to go there, I will send you some
> > > > photos
> > > > >after
> > > > >> > I come back from Alaska. You will need a pretty health shaper
> > > > for this,
> > > > >> > at least 2 hp. I am using a 220v Grizzly. Ask me again next
> year!
> > > > >> > -
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> > > > >> >
> > > > >> >
> > > > >>
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> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > From Jim Mitchell
> > > > on vacation in Juneau Alaska
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
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